Filed under: art conversation, exhibit | Tags: artist, burma, burmese, myanmar, painter, painting, pansodan, Pansodan Art Gallery, thu rein m, thu rein sann, thu rein.ms, Thurein M, Yangon
In this exhibition, Thu Rein is showing off two series of paintings — some are a straightforward and lovely realism, some are a fresh take which gives an impression of cubism while in fact maintaining a realist approach.
The painter Thu Rein (who sometimes signs himself Thu Rein.M, sometimes Thu Rein Sann, sometimes Thu Rein.MS) began a self-portrait, reflected in the mirror-mosaic of a pagoda wall, seven years ago (see image below). It took him many visits to pagodas, looking at mirrored tiles until he was dizzy before he got the colours, images, shapes and impression he was looking for.
This was the beginning of a series of images shown in the fragments silvery tiles which adorn many pagoda walls. In News Hunter (centre painting in this blog’s header) he depicts parts of a face reflected in a pattern of mirrors, with a camera at the centre, half-hidden behind green leaves, and with the gilded embellishments and other elements of a monastery all around and overlapping the hunter.
He travelled around the country, to Magway, Minbu, Pyinmana and many other places, where he painted whatever caught his eye reflected in the mirrored surfaces. In the painting of the brass Buddha image from Pyinmana, little other than the sheen and colour is reflected. In another, titled Two Friends (see image below), hardly any of the faces of the friends shows, subsumed by the reflections of gold, brass, and the colours of their shirts. The Faceless is another of this series, in which a fragmented person with hints of hair and hand is outdone by his surroundings.
The other series is of the twilight over the Bazundaung River, which shapes and divides the eastern side of Yangon. Views of the city from Thaketa and Thingangyun neighbourhoods, or from Bazundaung itself show the rich colours of dusk. He became entranced by the colours of the sunsets, the fiery sky reflected in the water. Many of the paintings are anchored by the Shwe Dagon, which from that side soars above the town. Another is painting in a bit of North Okkalappa, along the same waterway. In this one, the pagoda popularly called ‘Yangon Thabyinnyu’ and the bank of the river with modest huts make the scene look like a little piece of Bagan, but with a hulk of a building on the horizon where the hills might be in the ancient capital.
A few plein air pictures with other themes round out the exhibition which will be showing until 13 March 2013, at Pansodan Art Gallery, from 10-6 (open until late on Tuesday).
Interview with Nance Cunningham in Pansodan Art Gallery, 11 March 2013
Filed under: exhibit | Tags: Art, bagi aung soe, bagyi aung soe, burmese, myanmar, painting, pangyi aung soe, pansodan, Yangon
Bagyi Aung Soe blew the Burmese art world’s mind open with the freedom of his mind. An exhibition honouring his work starts in the expanded Pansodan space, near Maha Bandoola. The staircase just north of Maha Bandoola on Pansodan, second floor.
Filed under: exhibit | Tags: A Flower Wants Just to Bloom, Art, စန်းဇော်ထွေး, burma, burmese, collage, myanmar, pansodan gallery, prison, prison art, recycled, recycled art, San Zaw Htway, San Zaw Htwe
On 13 January 2012, when a major amnesty was announced, San Zaw Htway was in prison near Taunggyi, working on a portrait of Aung San Suu Kyi executed in the crimped edges of Coffeemix[1] packets on a black plastic bag. He did not know whether he would be included in the amnesty or not, so kept working on the picture late into the night. The next day he was freed.
Among the things he left behind was a large picture of tulips, hung in the prison library. It is one of many pictures he made out of scraps of card, bags, and plastic scavenged from family parcels. He took boxes which had come into the prison full of treats brought by families of prisoners, smoothed them out, covered them in cut-up bags, and then snipped sweet wrappers, powdered-drink packets, labels of every kind. San Zaw Htway had started making these pictures in 2006, when such work was sometimes tolerated, but not officially allowed. Some early ones were lost, but he comforted himself with the knowledge that he had to skill in his mind and hands to make more.
San Zaw Htway had been a cloth merchant before his arrest at the age of 24. Years later, in 2006, he heard about an artist, Htein Lin, who had exhibited paintings made from recycled materials when he was released from prison. At that time, in San Zaw Htway’s prison, they could not get brushes, paints, canvas, or even paper. But the word ‘recycle’ stuck in his mind. Then he noticed the colourful plastics which sometimes blew about the prison grounds, and began to collect them.
The first picture he made was a replica of a well-known photograph of Bogyoke Aung San. San Zaw Htway felt strengthened by the presence of the leader’s gaze in his cell. As he composed the pictures in his mind, and worked on collecting and arranging the materials, the annoyances and sadnesses of prison life receded.

With the thought of how it might be like this if I could revive the withered lives of the 18-, 19-, 20-year-old kids who I saw convicted for stealing, pickpocketing, disturbing, hiding, to make them beautiful again.
He cleverly used the materials at hand. Translucent white pagodas glimmer in the moonlight on the night of a black plastic bag. Trunks of palms are given texture from the portions of coffeemix bags which feature coffee beans. Little tulips are cut from the crinkly heat seals and scalloped edges of wrappers. In his pictures of flowers, each blossom has many different colours.
‘Flowers want just to bloom; they don’t expect anything more from it’, he says. ‘And no flower fails to bloom just because it is afraid to fade and fall.’
By the time San Zaw Htway was released, his pictures were known and appreciated in the prison. He was allowed to take out his remaining work upon his release. When he arrived home, he continued to make pictures from cuttings, but he was no longer retricted to the scale of flattened cake boxes. He has made large pictures of peacocks using the same techniques, which will be for sale at Pansodan Art Gallery in October, as well as works on canvas. The pictures he made in prison are not for sale; he plans to take them on tour as part of a larger project. “I could never recapture the mood that is in those pictures,” he said. “Not even if I went back to prison. The prisons now are not the same as then.”
23 – 27 October 2012
286 Pansodan, first floor (upper block)
Kyauktada, Yangon. Mobile: 0951 30846
Open daily 10 – 6.
[1] In this country where some of the best tea in the world is produced, most people do not care much about the quality of coffee, and favour packets of pre-mixed instant coffee, sugar, and coffee whitener.
- ထောင်ထဲမှာ ရာသီစာ အပင်ကလေးတွေပဲ မြင်တွေ့ရင်းနှီခွင့်ရနေတာ ကြာလာတော့ အဝေးပြေးလမ်းမတွေရဲ့ဘေးစီတန်းပေါက်ရောက်နေတဲ့သစ်ပင်တန်းကြီးတွေကို လွမ်းလို့၊ မွန်းကြပ်မှုတွေဆီက ထွက်ပြေးချင်လို့ To dispel the oppressive feeling of missing the great trees which line the highways, after seeing mainly only annuals in the prison for a long time.
- မြန်မာ့ရိုးရာအကတွေဟာ မြန်မာ့ရိုကးရာသိုင်းပညာရဲ့အခြေခံအဆင့်မြင့်သိုင်းကွက်တွေလို အခြေခံထားတယ်ဆိုတဲ့ ကြားဖူးနားဝ အမှတ်သညာက ဒေါင်းတွေရဲ့ ကကွက်ထဲမှာလည်း တိုက်ကွက်တွေပါမှာပဲဆိုတဲ့အတွေးနဲ့ Thinking of how I have often heard that traditional Myanmar dance forms the basis if traditional Myanmar martial arts, and so in the iconic dance of the peacock there must also be fighting stances.
- Everyone who has been down that road can say that one’s integrity is the purest defence.
- ပူလောင်တဲ့နွေရာသီထဲက အေးမြတဲ့လရောင်ကို ငတ်မွတ်မိလို့ In the melting heat of summer I thirst for the cool of the moonlight.
- အရောင်တွေ၊ ပန်းပွင့်တွေက မွန်းကြပ်နေတဲ့စိတ်ကို ပြေလျော့စေတယ်ဆိုတဲ့ ယုံကြည်ချက်နဲ့ With the belief that colours and flowers can relieve that suffocating feeling.
- မျှော်လင့်ချက်တွေပဲ စိတ်ကူးနဲ့ ပွင့်ဖူးနိုင်ခဲ့တဲ့ အခန်းကျဉ်းထဲကပန်းတွေပါ။ The flowers which can bloom with nothing but hopes in the confines of the room.
- ခိုး၊ ဆိုး၊ နှိုက်၊ မှောင်ရိပ်ခိုတွေနဲ့ ထောင်ကျလာတဲ့ ၁၈၊ ၁၉၊ ၂၀ဆိုတဲ့ လူငယ်တွေရဲ့ နွမ်းကြေနေတဲ့ဘဝတွေကို ခုလိုဖူးပွင့်အောင် လှပလာအောင် ပြန်လည်မြေတောင်မြှောက်ပေးနိုင်မယ်ဆိုရင် ဆိုတဲ့အတွေးနဲ့
Filed under: art and ideas | Tags: autobiography, burma, judyth gregory-smith, mo tejani, myanmar, travelogue
The next Art and Ideas evening will start at 5pm on Sunday, 16 August. There will be two authors speaking and reading from their work, Mo Tejani and Judyth Gregory–Smith.
Along with an evening with two very funny, very friendly writers, you can enjoy my newest bright blue herbal tea.
Judyth Gregory–Smith A trishaw called Kinny: journeys in Myanmar (Now retitled Myanmar: A Memoir Of Loss And Recovery, click to order)
Ms Gregory–Smith is a veteran travel journalist with numerous publications in international periodicals, and two books on Sulawesi — Sulawesi: Ujung Pandang to Kendari and Southeast Sulawesi – Islands of Surprises.
‘A Trishaw called Kinny: Journeys in Myanmar’ is an intimate, detailed travelogue packed with first-hand information. One theme of the book is royal cities. She explores and tells about their fascinating histories: numerous royal wives, abundant royal children and the massacre by each new king of his relatives to thwart any pretenders to the throne.
Her sharp observations and wit are put to good use in modern Myanmar, so different from its neighbours.
When she was planning a trip to Myanmar, she had tried to buy such a book to supplement the guide-books, but there were no travelogues later than the beginning of the 20th century. The books she could find were mainly on the political situation. Perhaps as a result, she the trip ended up being rich in unintended adventure travel experience. And soon there will be such a book.
Quote from ‘A Trishaw called Kinny: Journeys in Myanmar’
Richard and I first visited Myanmar, then called Burma, in 1987. Our passions were travel, nature, birds, other cultures and each other. The list is not in order. We were on leave from the Australian High Commission in Papua New Guinea.
“Wouldn’t it be good to see what my opposite number is doing in the Embassy in Burma?’ he’d said, which in Richard-speak really meant ‘Wouldn’t it be good to traipse through jungles and swamps to study Burma’s rainforest birds and animals.’Richard’s opposite number in Burma was on my side. He arranged civilized visits to the Strand, the Shwedagon, Pegu, Pagan and Mandalay. No swamps. The powers-that-were permitted a visa for only two-weeks, but that was enough to fall in love with the country.
We vowed to return. And I did. Alone. Richard died in 2001. Had it not been for my daughter, I might not have returned. Fiona and her partner Patrick work for the International Committee of the Red Cross and were posted there. To spend time with them and my grandchildren, I would return to Myanmar.
This book – a geographical, historical and personal journey – also charts my own journey of recovery and self-discovery after the death of Richard. I travel alone throughout Myanmar visiting not only the well-known pagodas and monasteries, but also isolated villages, farming communities and schools. I use public transport, stay at family-run guesthouses and meet with the local people who are rich in culture, but poor in material possessions.
Mo Tejani A Chameleon’s Tale: true stories of a global refugee
Mohezin (“Mo”) Tejani—an Indian Shia Muslim by

a chameleon\’s tale, design by Doug Morton, 72 Studio
ancestry—was expelled from Idi Amin’s Uganda in 1972. Torn apart from his family and exiled from the continent of his birth, he was suddenly left homeless, with little sense of his own cultural identity. As a refugee, he first fled to England and then to America in the early seventies. Fluent in eight languages, he has spent twenty years working in refugee camps in Asia, training rural farmers in Central America, educating First Nation tribes in Canada, and coordinating poverty reduction projects in Africa.
Over the last five years, Mo has returned to his childhood passion–writing. The first volume of his memoirs, “A Chameleon’s Tale: True Stories of a Global Refugee” is a reflection of his life of travel and the continued search for a place he can call home. As one reviewer noted, Tejani is “a cross-cultural Jack Kerouac”
Mo currently resides in Chiang Mai, Thailand and writes feature articles, poetry, and essays for various magazines worldwide. A Chameleon’s Tale was chosen as a finalist for a PEN Book Award in 2007. In 2004, his “stalking interview” in Bangkok with Nobel Laureate V.S. Naipaul appeared in Untamed Travel Magazine, distributed all over Southeast Asia. The second volume of his travel memoirs, Global Crossroads, due for publication in 2010, focuses on the psychological alienation of exile and ultimately the liberation from his own cultural chains.
Quote from A Chameleon’s Tale
Children were everywhere in the streets of Vietnam…. On the sandy beach, a grouop of five cornered me: two boys with Chiclets and imported cigarettes, adn three girls with fresh pineapples, oranges, and dragon fruit, all in season…. On a whim, I decided to try an experiment with [the] gang of entrepreneurs.
“If I promise to buy two things from each of you, you must agree to play on the beach for the next two hours. Okay?”
They all looked at mu suspiciously at first. The questions were endless. What was I up to? How could they be sure I would keep my promise at the end of the two hours? What if their mothers caught them playing on the beach and not selling their quota for the day? They must leave before five o’clock for Hoi An City Hall to sell to the workers on their way home.
Once assured that I was sincere in my offer, they had a private meeting among themselves. When they came back, Tranh mad eme specify the two things I would buy from each of them, the price I would pay for each item, and when the playing time would be over. Finally, after twenty minutes, we concluded our negotiations.
Twenty minutes. Smiles all around. Back in 1973, it took Henry Kissinger and Le Duc Tho twenty days — while the killing continued on both sides — to agree on which directions the tables they sat at would face during the peace treaty in Paris. Later that year, both men were awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for negotiating the end of the war. Kissinger accepted the award; Le Duc Tho did not.
Read reviews of the book in the Chiang Mai Mail here, and in Book Review Journal here.
About the event
As always, a portion of the sales from the event will be donated to local organisation Cultural Canvas, which provides art experiences for disadvantaged children in and around Chiang Mai.
Location: click me for google map
Find Suriya Gallery in the western part of Chiang Mai, Thailand near Chiang Mai University, on Huay Kaew Road. It is at No. 2, Hotel Bua Luang, Soi Bua Luang (the same soi as Holiday Garden), off Huay Kaew Road. Look for the spray-paint Suriya Art Gallery sign before you get to the hotel gate, or park in the Nice Nails/Mr Chan and Miss Pauline’s Pizza parking lot at the mouth of the soi, and walk through the gate, keeping to the left, to No. 2.
Filed under: art and ideas, food | Tags: burma, censorship, jacqueline suter, modern art, myanmar
Hide and Seek: Social Commentary in Contemporary Burmese Art

See the Chiang Mai Mail’s write-up of the talk here.
As always, ten per cent of any art sales, and 20 per cent of any other sales will be donated to a local organisation, Cultural Canvas, to provide art experiences for the children of migrants in Chiang Mai.
This event is free and open to all.
Filed under: art and ideas | Tags: alexandra green, anein, bagan, burma, jataka, mural, myanmar, pagan, temple painting, thai, theravada buddhism
Alexandra Green gave an illustrated talk exploring the Buddhist subject matter of Thai and Burmese wall paintings from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. A summary of the talk as written up in the Chiang Mai Mail newspaper is here.

The murals are largely composed of illustrations of the Jataka stories, the life of Gotama Buddha, the spiritual planes of the universe which address the concept of rebirth, celestial beings, mythical creatures, and Himavanta Forest. Delving into the layout of the wall paintings, the significance of the images is revealed. The imagery is more complex than immediately apparent. Strong links to popular beliefs emerge, even in the context of sacred stories.
You can read Dr Green’s research on paintings at Tilokaguru cave-temple in Sagaing online in the SOAS Bulletin of Burma Research here.
Her most recent book is Eclectic Collecting: Art from Burma in the Denison Museum.

Alexandra Green is a curator in the Asia Department at the British Museum. Previously, she has been a research assistant professor in the Department of Fine Arts at the University of Hong Kong, where she worked on a book on Burmese murals and a project comparing Thai and Burmese wall paintings, and Dr. Green has been director and curator of Asian Art at the Denison Museum at Denison University in Granville, Ohio, USA. In addition to publishing articles on Burmese murals, she has edited two volumes on Burmese art, including “Burma: Art and Archaeology” for the British Museum Press and “Eclectic Collecting: Art from Burma in the Denison Museum”, published by Singapore University Press. Dr. Green’s Ph.D. is from the School of Oriental and African Studies, London, UK.
As always, ten per cent of any art sales, and 20 per cent of any other sales will be donated to a local organisation, Cultural Canvas, to provide art experiences for the children of migrants in Chiang Mai.
For info: suriyagallery@gmail.com























